PRAGUE
Prague was already one of the destinations we had in mind to visit for a long time, but due to the pandemic everything was postponed. Now, in November 2021 we were able to make the long awaited trip.
Prague, capital of the Czech Republic and birthplace of writer Franz Kafka, is for many, one of the loveliest cities in Central Europe. And we are in agreement.
Called the Paris of Eastern Europe, for having a great artistic and cultural scene, good restaurants, great gardens and history all around. Prague has a lot to see and do, we recommend at least 4 full days! But if you have more time, stay, you won't regret it.
As for the LGBT venues, there are many bars and clubs where you can and should visit and enjoy the excellent atmosphere, vibe and great prices compared to other major European capitals.
We arrived in Prague on a direct flight from Lisbon with TAP (Portuguese airline) very close to lunchtime and went straight to our apartment booked on Booking.com, which offered us a transfer with the reservation.
In Prague there is no gay area. There are several bars around the city, but we can say that the epicenter of the gay scene is the Vinohrady district. It was where we stayed and we loved the area. In a next visit, it will be here again that we'll stay.
The Vinohrady district is next to the historic center, easily accessible on foot and if you want to take the train to the next destination, as we did, the main train station (Praha hl.n) is just a few minutes away on foot.
Between the Vinohrady distric and the old town is the giant Wenceslas Square. It is the main square of the new town and where several events are held in the city, with a lot of commerce and movement. At the top of the square you have the amazing and imposing National Museum of Prague.
You can visit the main tourist attractions of the city on foot and not use transport. It's very easy and that's the only way you'll discover the various corners of the city.
We start our visit in the Malá Strana district, one of the most charming historical districts in Prague and where the castle complex is located. We went by Uber from the apartment, for convenience, but you can walk. The Uber left us at the top of the castle complex which for us is the best way to start visiting the Malá Strana district, as the tour is all downhill.
To visit the interior of the castle complex there is no entry fee (at least at the time we went). Be prepared as there may be long lines to enter, as you have to be searched to enter.
The complex is open every day from 6am to 10pm, but the buildings inside are open from 9am to 4pm. 15 minutes before 4pm the doors are closed and no one else enters the buildings.
Inside the complex you can visit the gardens (they are closed in winter), the grand Cathedral (no admission is paid to visit the interior, if you want to visit the altar and more inside then you have to pay) the Royal Palace and the Golden Lane.
When you leave the complex or even before entering, prepare your smartphone for the fantastic photos you can take from the various viewpoints, which cover the entire historic part of the city and the river. It's one of our favorite spots to see the city from above.
When you leave the complex, get ready for a nice walk down to the center of the neighbourhood. The streets of the neighborhood are one of the main attractions, but you can't miss:
- Waldstein Garden
- U Luzickeho Seminare, the narrowest street in the world, where you will have a traffic light to pass, as it is not possible for 2 people at the same time. You can cross the street and come back, as it only goes to one restaurant.
- Nerudova Street, (Royal Way or Kings Road) is the historic street linking Prague Castle to Charles Bridge, via the Lesser Town (Malá Strana).
- St. Nicholas Church
- Lenon Wall, very close to the bridge and a big spot in the city. Is a wall with graffiti and color that contrasts drastically with the style of the historic center. The wall is never the same, at any moment a new graffiti appears.
- Mostecká Street, is lively and picturesque with facades of Baroque buildings on both sides as well as many shops.
- Church of Our Lady Victorious or Sanctuary of the Infant Jesus of Prague. As a tip, if you want to buy or offer some religious gift, related to the Infant Jesus of Prague, this church has a small shop and the prices here are much lower than in many gift shops around the city.
And then take the opportunity to cross the famous and charming Charles Bridge.
Before leaving the neighborhood, if you want to have a typical lunch in Prague, we recommend the Ferdinanda Restaurant, just search on google.
We guarantee the most typical possible, low price and good food. It is likely that you will not find any tourists in the restaurant, in other words, it is really typical and good.
Once you've crossed the bridge, you can't miss the delicious Trdelnik, we couldn't resist eating twice the original ones, but you can try filled with whipped cream or even ice cream.
If you have some free time and want to rest your legs, you can also find the gay Cafe Bar Flirt in the historic center, which is also open in the afternoon.
Another suggestion we give, if you want to have something simpler for lunch, you can't miss the delicious baguettes on Bageterie Boulevard. You'll find several around the historic center.
Since we like to walk the streets we leave some streets that we passed and we also suggest walking (all these streets are located between the old town and the Vinohrady distric):
- Wenceslas square
- Vodičkova street
- Jungmannova street
- Na Příkopě street
- Ovocný street
- Havelská street, where a small open-air market is located, where you can find various fruits and gifts.
- Melantrichova street
In the historic center you can't miss:
- Orloj (Prague Astronomical Clock), the fantastic tower and its famous clock. Rings every hour and prepare for a large crowd to watch.
- Stone Bell House
- Church of St. Nicholas
- St. James Basilica
- Church of Our Lady before Týn
- The Powder Tower
- Prague Old Town Hall, in our opinion is worth a visit and climb the tower for impressive views of the old town. The price to climb the tower and visit all the rooms in the old city hall is around €20 and is open from 9am to 9pm. You can take the elevator (you need to pay more), but we recommend the stairs.
- The beautiful central square and walk until you get lost in the immense streets of the old town. We guarantee that on your tour, you will visit this square many times -
Another thing that we recommend is: from the old town's central square, you go heading to the Jewish quarter, Josefov. Walk along Pařížská Street, which crosses the Jewish quarter and if you have the power (money lol) to do so, you'll find a street full of luxury stores and the most famous designers.
In the Jewish quarter the Jewish cemetery is worth a visit and the Spanish synagogue. In this neighborhood you'll find six synagogues, the Jewish Town Hall and the Convent of St. Agnes.
Another of the great attractions in our opinion that you cannot miss is the Franz Kafka - Rotating Head. If you can, go visit by night and then by day. In honor of the famous Czech writer, the monument is 11 meters high and consists of 42 layers of stainless steel that rotate on an axis.
The head rotates every hour and lasts for 15 minutes. Arrive a few minutes earlier, because according to our clock, the head starts to spin 3 minutes before its time ;)
On a walk near Kafka's head is also the famous Dancing House. The building reflects a concept of deconstructionist architecture, which, of course, raised enormous controversy in the mid-90s. Today, it's already part of Prague's urban landscape and attracts many visitors. The interior cannot be visited, but you can climb to the top where there is a cafe and restaurant.
If you have time in the city and the weather is fine, walk to the Legion Bridge (Most Legií) and from there you can walk along the river, cross the bridge and go down to one of the islands that are in the middle of the river.
Also be sure to visit the old town at night to see its streets lit up.
If you are adept at tasting different types of world cuisine, go, as we were, to the Manifesto Market. The space is outdoors, but if it's cold there are several heaters around the area and you'll find specialties from renowned chefs, awesome restaurants and products from amazing designers at one venue. Taste quality street food which offer is changed according to season: high-quality food, treats, great coffee and Czech beer from local microbreweries.
Prague was really a big surprise for us. We had high expectations, but even so it surpassed everything we had hoped for. It's a city full of life and energy with a great mix between the great cosmopolitan and historic capital.
Another city that stays in our heart and since we visit it in Winter, we really want to visit it in Summer. We'll definitely be back.
From Prague we leave for Bratislava by train, and you can find out everything HERE.
